Postby guilty338 » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:16 pm

Ha, it takes a lot of beer to keep my old man motivated!!!

But seriously he has done the majority of the fibreglass work on the hull, and the project would have no chance of getting done without him. Unfortunatley he is taking two weeks off the project to go and do some real work (farming), so I will have to make do without him!!!!

Thankfully I have heaps of work to keep me busy: finish the engine, make the boarding platform, finish the tower.................... and so on....
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Postby guilty338 » Wed Aug 13, 2008 1:12 am

More parts just hit my doorstep.

Stainless steel bolt kit- After seeing the engine as a rusted peice of junk I have decided stainless steel and aluminium are very good things!

Clevlite welsh plugs/coolant passage worm screws - Obviously these needed replacing.

Pioneer flex plate- The previous item was completley shafted due to being enclosed in a shield that help in salty lake water perfectly, the amount of water in the bilge of this boat was incredible!

Time to get busy!
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Postby djgnz » Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:44 am

I Might already be a bit late with some advice, but here goes anyway.

When i rebuilt mine we did a similar strip of the floor and rebuild of stringers etc. We then glassed the false floor back in and were pleased as with the strength and look of the boat. Not too long after our first few outings we started mucking around with a ballast system, which of course has to sit on top of the false floor. Given my time again i would have made tanks to fit in the gaps under the floor and glassed them in. We put a 120 ltr tank in the nose with a ballast pump to fill it, but all the ballast in a back sits on the floor taking up valuable space. you obviously have some really good fabrication skills so have a think about an underfloor system before you button everything up.

And by the way... NICE WORK! its good to see someone taking the time to do a decent job. our boat had about 5-6 different bodgy owners before we re-lifed it.
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Postby guilty338 » Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:28 pm

Thanks djgnz,
You obviously know the satisfaction of building something yourself!

The setup of the interior on the boat is a little different to most old clinkers, since the engine and jet are at the rear of the hull (with 'wasted space' that is too small for a seat to the left or right) I have decided to enclose the whole lot with a 'sunbed' style padded cover. The cover will have a lid that is split in three peices, one center section for the engine and jet access, and a two side sections for storage and possibly some ballast in the form of sacks or tanks.

The floor will then start at the nose and run back to the 'sunbed' section. I was not planning on fibreglassing the floor in, the previous floor was marine ply that was screwed into the stringers. However fibreglassing the floor to the hull would noticably increase the strength.......... so probably the way to go.

With the majority of the weight currently at the mid/rear of the boat (engine and jet) I think any ballast required would probably be at the front of the boat- so sitting a tank or sac ontop of the false floor is not a problem.

Fibreglassing the floor in....... sounds do-able...... did you use marine ply?
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Postby UK_Exile » Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:28 am

I wouldn't go to any effort trying to add ballast systems because based on our expereince, while the wake gets bigger the jet seems to just make the bigger wake even softer than the natural smaller wake. We tried with our Hamilton 141a. It had a Hamilton 212 jet unit coupled to a slightly warmed up 350 (about 270hp). Jets are very very versatile and great fun in shallows but don't make ideal wake boarding boats.
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Postby guilty338 » Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:35 am

Good point Exile,
I have accepted that the jet is not ideal for wakeboarding, presumably because it somewhat airates the water, however if it is not overly complex to get the hull further into the water (displacing more) it certainly can't hurt. Only one way to find out i guess!
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Postby djgnz » Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:06 pm

Of course i naturally assumed that you were going to use it for boarding. I have a bit of a one track mind when i log in here.

For our floor we didn't use marine ply in the end. We went to MR Ply to get it and told the guy what we were doing with it. he told us to just get standard ply and 'paint' it with resin before putting it in. It was a lot cheaper and the resin seeped into the wood making it completely waterproof and it also made the bond with the glass super strong. Some people are bound to rubbish us for going that way but 3 years on and its still as strong as and no signs of water seepage, mold or delamination.

I'm still happy.
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Postby mikus » Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:28 pm

*Off topic sorry*

How did you go with the wedge djgnz?
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Postby j_parsonson » Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:11 pm

djginz, my dad is in the timber industry and on our boat trailer we didn't use marine ply, we used standard high quality structural ply, and painted it. now remember that whatever we used was going to cost us nothing but time (cutting it to the right shape), and a few stainless screws, which are now being swapped over for nuts and bolts. the whole need to use marine ply is a bit of a myth, yeah sure it withstands water better, but this is just a different glue we are talking about, it is the same timber.
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Postby guilty338 » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:31 pm

Fair enough, it seems normal ply is the way to go. Just out of interest what is a rough price per sheet? I havent looked into the wood yet- does anyone know a good place in Perth?

Djgnz- No mistake there I am building this boat with wakeboarding in mind. However you have to accept its not going to be the next san210!!
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Postby Jasper » Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:12 pm

have you checked out HZSandman's clinker rebuid? he's done a very impressive build including an underfloor ballast system. hes the man to talk to i reckon. the boats called "rapid" and i think its a performancecraft boss. hopefully that info will make it easy to find the thread
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Postby guilty338 » Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:43 pm

Jasper,
Yes I have checked every old-school clinker rebuild on this site, what some people have done is awesome!

I really liked the look of the underfloor ballast system you mentioned, however I decided against it due to the boat's weight distribution. In my boat the stringer setup would mean inbuilt tanks would place the majority of thier weight over the middle and rear of the hull. This is where my engine and jet is located, and therefore I require less ballast there and more towards the front of the hull (this is really only a guess!!!).

I guess it is one of the interesting (and daunting) things about rebuilding an 'odd-ball' boat. No-one really knows what it's going to do...... It might be decent, it might sink! My theory is to do everything I can as well as I can and see what happens.
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Postby guilty338 » Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:28 pm

I have found something I hate more than flourescent colours on 2009 boots and idiots tubing in flat water. Sanding......

There must have been a sale on paint when the last owners added the blue/white paint scheme...... It was on super thick!! Here are a couple of pics of a long days work.
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Postby lewy71 » Sun Aug 17, 2008 11:13 pm

The difference between marine ply and standard ply is that the wood is selected with less knots i.e straighter grained. They actually use the same glue. You can buy a 2 pack wood preserving product from either Witworths or Bias Boating to treat the ply (CPES Clear penertrating epoxy system).
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Postby j_parsonson » Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:37 am

ok well there you go, must have not listened to dad properly when he explained it haha :lol: but all i remember is we used a good quality ply but it wasn't marine because it was not necessary
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Postby djgnz » Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:03 pm

guilty338 - I am pretty sure that you don't need to rub it right back to get a good finish. I'm not a painter by trade but have knocked off a few 'dulux overhauls' in my time.

I might be a bit late, but the old paint shouldn't have any solvent left in it to react, and the undercoat should seal all the old paint in nicely.

Prep tho, as you no doubt know, its the key. its hard to decide when enough is enough. I know one spot on my boat where i just couldn't be bothered any more and i kicked myself for leaving it.
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Postby guilty338 » Tue Aug 19, 2008 2:24 pm

your right, it doesnt have to be taken right back to the gel coat, however I thought i'd take the top coat of white off in order to remove the major scratches and dings.

I have done a fair few paintjobs in the past, and you are right preparation is everything.
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Postby guilty338 » Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:07 pm

G'day again,
Quick update on the progress. Outside of the hull is ready for filler/primer, so it's at a bit of a stand still until I can get that out of the way.

The engine is just about complete, now just waiting on new leads and exhaust manifolds (from rolco). Here are a few pics
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Postby dudester » Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:44 am

guilty338 wrote:G'day again,
Quick update on the progress. Outside of the hull is ready for filler/primer, so it's at a bit of a stand still until I can get that out of the way.

The engine is just about complete, now just waiting on new leads and exhaust manifolds (from rolco). Here are a few pics


DAMN ......how good does your motor look,impressive effort dude !!
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Postby Chris » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:11 am

that sump is choice haha
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